Back to the beginning


“In search of that fickle golden light. That metaphysical Eldorado. That place up there on the coast where the world begins anew each and every day. On the trail from Wellington to Te Tairawhiti, the East Cape or of the North Island on another carelessly planned misadventure.”

The passing of a loved one requires a personal pilgrimage – an appropriate tribute to a life well lived.

The aim was to journey north from Wellington to my own tūrangawaewae, back to the place of my childhood, remnants and friends. To travel back to where the world began and seek closure on those bonds of belonging.

I left lightweight and alone at dawn On September 19, 2021, to travel the backroads of Hawkes Bay and all the rugged places beyond. This is a collection of excerpts and personal recollections along the trail.